The shoulder woke up
For three years the fashion conversation was conducted in a whisper. Quiet luxury, stealth wealth, the beige-on-beige uniform that turned every coffee shop into a CΓ©line campaign β it was beautiful, and by 2026 it was also exhausted. The silhouette that opened New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027, and the one that quietly ruled Copenhagen a month earlier, is not whispering. It is taking up space. The defining shape of the coming year is volume: puff sleeves, bishop sleeves, balloon sleeves, and a structured shoulder line that designers are using to say, quite literally, "I am here."
This is not the body-con era in reverse. The new volume is soft, romantic, and architectural at the same time. At Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27, the look locals dubbed "Cool Whip" sent cloud-like dresses down the runway at Collina Strada, Stine Goya, and Institution β garments that float rather than cling. In New York, the conversation was about strong silhouettes: structured shoulders, elongated torsos, defined waists, and the flare skirt emerging as a key item across both daywear and eveningwear. The message is consistent in two very different capitals: the body is allowed to be framed again.
Where the volume came from
The signal is remarkably consistent across two very different fashion weeks. Copenhagen's "Working Girl" trend brought shoulder pads back, but updated β Gestuz and Caro Editions channelled 1980s power suits with an ironic, modern wink rather than a literal throwback. The "Sail Away" theme leaned on billowy sleeves and cascading blouses at The Garment and Skall Studio, treating movement and fluidity as the whole point. New York echoed it: Tory Burch opened her SS27 show with intricately embroidered "pie-crust" cardigans and coral satin, while Henry Zankov's debut for Diane von Furstenberg pushed the wrap dress into a psychedelic, 70s-inspired register of floaty chiffon and bigger palettes.
Sheer fabric is the other half of the story. Lightweight organza, chiffon, and fine mesh appeared in layered combinations on both runways β a way to do transparency that feels contemporary rather than exposed. The trick is layering a sheer outer shell over a structured underlayer, which creates depth and movement while keeping coverage. For a brand like PHEFEE, which builds everyday pieces in rose-gold and blush tones, this is the most commercial takeaway of the season: volume and sheer can live in a wearable, body-confident wardrobe rather than a runway-only fantasy.
Why volume sells in 2027
Trend forecasters are reading the return of volume as a mood, not just a silhouette. After a decade of apologetic dressing, shoppers are reaching for clothes that feel like a statement. The "escape from reality" framing from Copenhagen is telling: in an anxious world, voluminous clothing reads as a small act of defiance, a refusal to shrink. Maximalism has been clawing its way back for two seasons, and SS27 gave it a firm push into the spotlight.
There is a practical angle too. Voluminous pieces often require less aggressive fabric manipulation, which aligns with the eco-conscious ethos that Scandinavian brands wear as a badge. And because the volume sits in the sleeve or the skirt rather than the fit, it flatters a wider range of bodies β which matters enormously for a label built on inclusive, inch-based sizing from XS through plus. A balloon sleeve does not discriminate by size; it simply asks for a defined waist to anchor it.
How to wear the volume without drowning
The mistake is treating volume as an all-or-nothing commitment. The 2027 way is contrast: a dramatic puff-sleeve blouse anchored by a clean, straight-leg trouser; a balloon-sleeve knit balanced by a column skirt; a structured shoulder softened by fluid, bias-cut fabric. The goal is ease, not excess. A roomy sleeve gains its shape the moment it meets a defined waist or a slim lower half, and that is the styling rule worth memorising.
For your own wardrobe, start with one hero piece. Our statement tops in blush and rose-gold are an easy on-ramp, and a voluminous sleeve pairs beautifully with the fluid midi and maxi dresses we release each season. Keep the rest of the look quiet β cream trousers, a simple gold hoop β and let the sleeve do the talking. Volume should feel like confidence, never like a costume.
Frequently asked questions
Is the volume trend the same as 80s power dressing?
Not exactly. The 2027 version borrows the shoulder and the confidence but drops the stiffness. Shoulder pads this time are softer and often ironic, and the volume lives in fluid fabrics rather than rigid tailoring β think balloon sleeves and cloud-like dresses, not shoulder pads you could rest a tray on. It is romance, not armour.
Will big sleeves work on a larger frame?
Yes, and that is one of the trend's real strengths. Because the drama sits in the sleeve and the drape rather than the fit, volume flatters a wide range of body types. The key is balancing proportion: pair a full sleeve with a defined waist or a slimmer lower half so the silhouette stays intentional and grounded rather than overwhelming.
How do I style puff sleeves for the office?
Anchor them. A voluminous-sleeve blouse with straight-leg trousers and a low pump reads polished, not costume. Keep jewellery minimal and let the sleeve be the statement. Sheer overlays work too, provided there is a structured layer underneath to keep the look appropriate from desk to dinner.
Is volume just a runway moment or will it reach stores?
It is already reaching stores. The silhouette showed up across both Copenhagen and New York in commercial categories β cardigans, blouses, knitwear β and indie retailers are translating "Cool Whip" and "Working Girl" into wearable pieces you can buy now rather than wait a year for the trend to trickle down.
Editor's note: This article was researched and drafted with AI assistance and reviewed by the PHEFEE editorial desk. Trend data is drawn from the sources listed below.Sources
Edgar β Copenhagen 2027: 5 trends spotted
Jerry Bruno β Top 5 Copenhagen Fashion Trends for 2027
Styline Collection β Biggest Fashion Trends from NYFW SS27
Grazia β The Best Looks From NYFW SS27
Digital Kashish Jain β Fashion trends taking over in 2027
